Shaved Duck – So Much Wasted Potential

Date Dined: May 17, 2014

Overall Rating: 3.5 Stars

Décor Rating: 4 stars

There is something cozy and comforting about Shaved Duck’s décor. Cozy booths in dark reds line the walls and wooden tables are interspersed at comfortable distances. It has many of the hallmarks I like in a restaurant: dark wood, exposed brick, and tasteful unique decorations. Shaved Duck is a nice place to meet with a group of friends or have a romantic, but not intimate dinner.

Price Rating: 3 stars

Prices at the Shaved Duck are mostly reasonable, but a little high on some items. Five dollars per side is a little high for the amount of food you receive, along with a nine dollar Caesar salad. All in all, you won’t leave broke but if you go for a full meal including drinks, appetizer/side, entrée, and just one drink you can wrack up a hefty thirty-plus bill. Again, not outrageous prices, but just not a great meal deal.

Service Rating: 2.5 stars

Let me say that my low rating was caused by the host, not our server. I found our server friendly, prompt, and knowledgeable about the menu. My only two minor complaints was that he often didn’t know what items the kitchen had 86ed including: what desserts were still available, and what beers were available, and that he was a little forgetful about refilling of water.

The host however, needs to learn that no matter how popular you get, a smile and some courtesy is always appreciated. Upon walking in I asked for carry out, with which I was met with a loud sigh and informed that they don’t do carry-out on the weekend. Okay, that’s fine, no need for the attitude man-child.

I then asked how long the wait was and was informed that it was forty-five minutes. Since it was already nine and that’s a daunting wait I didn’t give him an answer right away. Again, more sighs and foot tapping this time. After about 20 seconds I told him okay (we had an ice cream cake in the car).

Thinking we had forty-five minutes and since we only live five minutes away we decided to run home, store our perishables and return. On the way out I noticed there were about 4 empty tables inside and 2 on the patio, and there were only three names before ours. We managed to get home and back to the restaurant in fifteen minutes and we were informed that he had called our names and our table had been given away.

Now I have worked at a restaurant for many many years. Wait times are not always possible to calculate exactly, but to be thirty minutes off? Come on. I might have been more accepting of the incompetence if he had a better attitude, but no mercy for this chubby little man.

Food rating: 3.5 stars

When Shaved Duck still opened I thought they were a mixed bag. They had some items that were mind blowing including the cornbread skillet, loaded potato skins, and duck confit. They also had some items that were just disappointing like stringy-dried ribs, and kind of bland gumbo. The restaurant has done a very good job of improving on its lesser items, but has lost some of its flair in the amazing highlights.

We began the night with an order of cornbread. I remember this thing being just right: thick, slightly sweet, and oh so moist. What was brought out to us looked the same on the outside, but the chef has made some weird changes to the dish. First of all, there was a very strong taste of egg, so much so that it tasted like egg whites in bread form. Second of all, while not dry by any means you really needed the honey butter to complete the dish. The honey butter by the way is just as good and may cause someone to just eat butter straight out of the ramekin.

Jess ordered the duck confit appetizer as her entrée, another staple that we used to get. Back in the old days the dish was on the smaller side, but after taking a bite you forgot all about that. The skin was crispy and as light as edible paper, and the meat was moist and bursting with savory flavor. They’ve increased the size, which is nice, but I found some things lacking. The skin was moist, which wasn’t unpleasant, but I likened it to more of a rotisserie chicken skin than anything else. The flavor was the same, slightly seasoned, likely brined, and allowing the duck to speak to itself. However, while the meat near the bone was moist, the meat just under the skin was actually a little dry. Not unedible, but like the duck confit of old.

I ordered a half rack of ribs and the burnt ends appetizer for my entrée. The burnt ends were okay, with the appropriate amount of char and soaked in a nice smoky sauce, but some of the pieces were tiny which resulted in just tough, burnt pieces of meat. The ones that were sized correctly were wonderful, but for every one of those there was a small tough piece. However, they’ve definitely raised the quality of their ribs. Still not Bogart’s quality, but slightly above a Bandanas. If I had to give them a couple more suggestions I’d say they need to more carefully monitor the removal of the membrane from the back of their ribs and smoke them just a little longer. These things won’t fall off the bone, but if have a hardcore craving for ribs (like me yesterday night) then they’ll satisfy. One mystifying thing to me was that you don’t have free access to the sauce that they actually put on the ribs. On the table there is a smoky, gritty sauce, a mango habanera sauce, and a vinegar sauce. But no sign of the sweet, slightly smoky finish they use on the ribs which is quite good.

We both ordered a side of mac and cheese and while you won’t be wowed, once again it’s above average. It’s white mac, which I enjoy on occasion, and it appeared that they used real cheese which was nice, but if you don’t like your sauce thick then don’t order it. Imagine melted cheese, poured over noodles, and you’ll understand what the mac and cheese tasted like. Again, not bad, but unique and not for everyone.

For dessert we settled on the blueberry bread pudding, as I love blueberries and Jess loves bread pudding. Also it was the only dessert left. For people who love traditional bread pudding this won’t be their favorite, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. Imagine making a muffin out of chunks of bread, pour a metric crap ton (yes that’s a measurement) of blueberries into the mix, and then breaking it up and bringing it out to the table. Not enjoying the decadant rich sauces that bread pudding is usually drenched in, I really enjoyed this dish, excellent mouthfeel!

Final Thoughts

I would say only go to Shaved Duck if A) you are aiming go to the Shaved Duck B) if you are looking for some nice duck dishes that aren’t cooking Chinese style C) it is Saturday night at nine pm and you want some BBQ. The wait will be daunting unless you arrive at the right time, and if you’re looking for any mixed drink more complicated than a seven and seven this isn’t the place for you (although the beer list is four pages long and stocked with a hefty amount of microbrews).

Hopefully you won’t have to deal with the same host as we did, but if you do just remind yourself that he’s probably a very lonely young man. The servers however will be friendly which makes up for it. If you don’t walk in expecting the food to be amazing then you will be amazed, but be prepared for a fairly hefty bill if you want to make a night of it.